"Bio sam sramežljiv klinac, a sad sam taj moćni frajer s erekcijom koji dominira svim tim curama", ponosno ističe kralj porno chic fotografije. Postavlja se pitanje zašto je ovaj frajer posvuda, zašto mu zvijezde uporno ne prestaju pozirati i zašto njegove hardcore pornografske fotografije vlastitog sebe i dalje slobodno kolaju Internetom? Potencijalni seksualni predatori ne bi smjeli biti slavljeni u modnoj industriji pa zašto se onda Terryu konstantno gleda kroz prste? Možda zato što mu se dvadeset modela dnevno nudi da ih poševi ili ih bar slika polugole u kupaonici u zamjenu za malo slave? Je li matematika toliko jednostavna? Opći li Terry sa svim tim modelušama samo zato jer ima fotoaparat i objavljuje li potom njihove fotografije samo zato što mu mnoštvo kontakata sređuje objavljivanje tih istih fotografija?
Neću uopće ulaziti u moguće razloge njegovog navodnog predatorskog ponašanja kao što su teško djetinjstvo, a pri tom mislim na život s ocem Bobom, poznatim modnih fotografom, ali i šizofreničarom koji je u 43. godini života ostavio Terryevu majku radi tada 17- godišnje Anjelice Huston koja je kasnije priznala kako ju je Bob toliko maltretirao da je htjela počiniti samoubojstvo. Niti ću ulaziti u detalje devastirajuće nesreće koju je doživjela Terryeva majka kada je on imao svega 9 godina, a čiji je oporavak ostavio tragične posljedice na Terrya. Teško djetinjstvo, kako Terry objašnjava, učinilo ga je osobom koju privlače disfunkcionalni, sjebani ljudi. A kada bih poželjela pisati o njegovom groznom djetinjstvu, mogla bih se raspisati i o tome kako je prekinuo školovanje u drugom srednje, a do 18- te postao ovisnik o heroinu. No, škola ionako nije bitna za Terryevu priču jer ubrzo nakon što je počeo raditi s ocem na snimanjima, okrenuo se da to tako nazovem "intimnoj fotografiji", a pri tom mislim na to da je fotografirao muškarce s penisima na izvolte što mu je osiguralo i prvu kampanju za britansku dizajnericu Katharine Hamnett. Ubrzo nakon nje, čitava svita dizajnera, glumaca i svi ostalih celebrityapopušila je Terryev porno chic i sirovu edgy fotografiju. Pop zvijezde, supermodeli, političari, transseksualci, prijatelji i ljubimci ispred njegove kamere radili su i još uvijek rade stvari koje ne bi radili ispred drugih fotografa.
Tehnički i umjetnički gledano njegov rad je genijalan, a korištenje seksualnog u modnoj industriji nije ništa novo. To su nas odavno naučili Calvin Klein i Tom Ford. No, ukoliko Terry zaista i opći sa svojim modelima, tu neke granice treba podvući. Čak je Chloë Sevigny koja Striku Terrya zna godinama, priznala kako su njegove metode rada često "manipulativne" .
Dakle, zašto se njegovo ponašanje uporno tolerira? Je li to možda zato što je modna industrija samo štala puna ovaca koja slijepo prati šaćicu fotografa i urednika koji imaju moć? Hoće li ovaj ili onaj look biti look sezone i hoće li ovo ili ono biti trend, odlučuje krug onih koji imaju dovoljno utjecaja da utječe na ishod onoga o čemu će se pisati, ali i na način na koji će se pisati. Samo blagoslov Anne Wintour i Carine Roitfeld dovoljan je da Terry bude nedodirljiv. Tim je gore jer je modna industrija jedna od rijetkih u kojoj vodeću riječ imaju žene. Stoga, zar je moguće da žene uporno angažiraju muškarca s kojim bi se bojale ostaviti vlastite kćeri u istoj prostoriji? I time što ga drže pod svoje, zapravo govore da je ono što radi u redu. Dok će njegovi asistenti samo nonšalantno odmahnuti rukom i reći: " Zar mislite da bi mu sve te zvijezde pozirale da je ono što radi zaista pornjava?"
Poanta čitavog ovog bloga je pomicanje granica i istraživanje seksualnosti i kao takva osoba sklona sam cijeniti umjetnike koji čine isto. U tom pogledu dio mene misli da pornografija može biti art. Taj isti dio mene sklon je misliti da ukoliko Terry samo fotografira cure u nekom svom pomaknutom seksualnom svijetu, a pri tom ih ne iskorištava seksualno, ne čini ništa loše. Taj isti dio mene viče: „Odvojimo lik Terrya Richardsona od djela Terrya Richardsona.“ Ali onaj drugi, i pritom ne mislim na onaj moralni jer je moral licemjerna izmišljotina, nego na onaj čisto racionalni i ljudski, govori mi da ono što Terry radi nije u redu. Jer koliko nam još dokaza treba da bi otvorili oči? Nismo li ionako prečesto skloni zaključiti kako žene lažu i preuveličavaju kad nekog optuže da ih je seksualno napastovao?? I zaista, kad uzmem sve u obzir, mogu samo reći da nakon pisanja ovog teksta osjećam samo gađenje prema umjetniku čiji sam lik i djelo toliko voljela.
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Terry Richardson - art or pornography? Welcome to porn paradise of this controversial photographer! - part2
"I was a shy kid, and now I'm this powerful guy with a boner dominating all these girls," proudly says king of porno chic photography. The question is why is this guy everywhere, why the stars won't stop to persistently pose for him and why his hardcore pornographic photos of himself remain free to circulate the Internet? Potential sexual predators shouldn't be celebrated in the fashion industry so why is Terry being constantly forgiven? Maybe because twenty models a day offer him sex or at least offer themselves to him to take pictures of them naked in the bathroom in exchange for a little bit of fame? Is math is so simple? Does Terry fuck all these models just because he has a camera and then publishes their photos only because he has a multitude of contacts who help him publish these photos?
I will not even go into possible reasons for his alleged predatory behavior such as a difficult childhood , and by that I mean the life with his father Bob, a famous fashion photographer , but also a schizophrenic who left Terry's mother when he was 43 for then 17 - year old Anjelica Huston who later admitted Bob molested her so much that she wanted to commit suicide. Neither will I go into details of devastating accident Terry 's mother had when he was only 9 years old, and whose recovery left tragic consequences for Terry. Difficult childhood , as Terry explains, made him the person who feels attracted by dysfunctional , fucked up people . And if I wanted to write about his horrible childhood , I could be talking about how he quit school in the tenth grade , and by 18 became a heroin addict . However, school isn't important in Terry's story since shortly after he started working with his father on the set , he turned to so call " intimate photography " , and by that I mean that the photographed men with penises out which got him the first campaign ever and that was for the British designer Katharine Hamnett . Shortly after , the entire suite of designers , actors and other celebrities fell for Terry's porno chic and raw edgy photography. Pop stars , supermodels , politicians , transsexuals , friends and pets did in front of his camera and are still doing things that they would never do in front of other photographers.
Technically and artistically speaking his work is brilliant, and the use of sex in fashion industry is nothing new. Calvin Klein and Tom Ford made us realise that long time ago. But if Terry really has sex with his models, that some limits should be underlined. Even Chloë Sevigny who knows Uncle Terry for years, admitted that his methods are often "manipulative"
So why is his behaviorpersistently tolerated? Is it perhaps because fashion industry is just a barn full of sheep whoblindly follow handful of photographersand editors who have the power? Will this or thatlook be the look of the season andwhether this or that will be the trend, decidesthe circle of those who have enoughinfluence to affect the outcome of what willbe written about, but also the way that will be written about. Only blessing ofAnna Wintour and Carine Roitfeld is enough for Terryto be untouchable. It is even worse because fashion industry is one of few in whichwomen have the leadingword. So, is it possiblethat women consistently hire a man they would be afraid to leave their daughters in the same room with? And by holding himunder their own they are actually saying that what he does is OK. While his assistants will just nonchalantlywave away their hands and say: "Do you think all these stars would pose for him if what he did was really porn?"
The whole point of this blog ispushing the boundaries and exploring sexuality andas such person I tend to appreciate artists whodo the same. In this aspect, part of me thinks that pornography can beart. That same part of me is inclined to think thatif Terry only photographs girlsin his sexualshifted world, and at the same time does not exploit them sexually, then he isn’t doing anything wrong. That same part of me shouts: „We must separate Terry Richardson's work from Terry Richardson." But the other part of me, and I do not mean that moral one because morality is just a hypocritical concoction, but the purely rational and human part tells me that what Terry is doing is not right. Because how muchmore evidence do we need to open our eyes? Aren’t we already too often inclinedto conclude that women are lying and exaggeratingwhen they accuse someone they were sexually assaulted? Indeed, when I take everything into account, I can only say thatafter this article I feel only disgust forthis artist whose work I loved so much.
text written by Iva
text edited by Iva
sources:
text edited by Iva
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