Annie Leibovitz svoje generacije, kralj porno chic fotografije i miljenik zvijezda, ali i navodni seksualni predator, Terry Richardson je fotograf oko kojeg kontroverza ne prestaje. Sin Boba Richardsona, modnog fotografa poznatog po radu koji se može mjeriti s onim Richarda Avedona, ali i svom osebujnom životu ispunjenom borbom sa šizofrenijom i drogom, Terry je ljubimac Hollywooda. Odrastao u istom tom Hollywoodu, počeo je kao sramežljiv i socijalno otuđen klinac s fotoaparatom u ruci, da bi danas od sebe napravio brend, brend koji doduše priziva i mnoge negativne konotacije. No, što god mi mislili o Terryu, jedno je sigurno - gotovo da ne postoji celebrity koji nije stao ispred njegovog objektiva. Pobogu, ni Obama, Oprah Winfrey i Madonna nisu ostali imuni na okidač ovog fotografa.
Richardson je snimao kampanje za prilično velika modna imena kao što su Marc Jacobs, Gucci, Miu Miu, Jimmy Choo, Diesel, Aldo, Supreme, Tom Ford, Yves Saint Laurent, Levis, Nike, American Apparel i Mango. Lista je nepregledna. Radio je za časopise kao što su Rolling Stone, GQ, Vogue, Vanity Fair, Harper's Bazaar i-D i Vice, fotografirao je vjenčanje Kate Moss, a budući da je njegova uloga u pop kulturi neminovna, ne čudi da je Lady Gaga izabrala upravo njega da napravi dokumentarac o njenom životu.
Nekoliko je ponavljajućih tema u Richardsonovom radu. Svatko tko je bar jednom bacio pogled na fotografije ovog umjetnika, znat će da je to prije svega stavljanje ekstremno poznatih zvijezda u posve zemaljsko okruženje. Zvijezde su pred njim stavljene u spontane situacije, snimane tek ispred obične bijele pozadine, bivajući posve ogoljene. Pri tom je njegova fotografija toliko realna da poprima granice trasha. Kao i otac, Terry fotografiji želi dati ono sirovo i životno, ono lišenog svakog filtera, osim doduše onog hipsterskog, obojanog duhom 90- ih. Ogoljenost je, ne zavaravajmo se, bitan aspekt njegovog rada i pritom mislim na onu seksualnu. Richardsonov rad je svojevrsno istraživanje seksualnosti, u čemu leži i najveća kontroverza njegovog djela.
Richardson je više puta optužen za seksualno iskorištavanje svojih modela. Navest ću izjave samo nekih:
Rie Rasmussen: "On angažira mlade cure, manipulira ih da se skinu i onda radi fotografije kojih će se kasnije sramiti. One su pak u strahu da kažu "Ne" jer su im agencije za koje rade dogovorile taj posao i premlade su da se izbore za sebe."
Jenna Sauers: " Od jako puno modela čula sam da sa svima radi na isti način. Odjednom se ispred njega nađete nage i onda vas dira i ide sve dalje i dalje. Ali okružene ste njegovim asistentima koji nadziru njegove postupke"
Jamie Peck: "Od svih fotografa za koje sam pozirala naga, on je jedini koji je u meni ostavi osjećaj kao da se moram otuširati dvaput". Peck je usput budi rečeno menstruirala na jednom od snimanja s Terryem. Terry ju je zamolio da se skine, na što mu je ona odgovorila kako ima menstruaciju. Fotografa to ni najmanje nije omelo. Dapače, zamolio ju je da izvadi tampon kako bi se mogao igrati s njim te ga iskoristiti da napravi čaj. Kada je Peck odbila, Terry se skinuo gol te je otpratio do kauča. Pritom ju je ljubazno pozvao na druženje s njim i njegovim slavnim prijateljima, da bi joj nakon toga predložio da ga zadovolji oralno, dok su je njegovi asistenti ohrabrivali u tome. Nakon što je svršio, jedan od njegovih asistenata dodao joj je ručnik.
Sve draža miljenica žena diljem svijeta, časopisa, tabloida, fotografa pa konačno i žene koja teško daje pohvale- modne Marije Bogorodice Anne Wintour, Lena Dunham također je izrazila svoj negativan stav prema Terryu. Jasno naglasivši kako se radi o seksualnom predatoru, Lena je izjavila kako žali što je surađivala s njim, istaknuvši kako Terry i ona nisu prijatelji, iako su mediji nagađali da je tako.
Model Noot Seer je pak stala u njegovu obranu objasnivši da Terry ne sili ljude s kojima radi na ništa što im nije ugodno, dok je dizajner Marc Jacobs priznao kako postoje problemi u modnoj industriji, međutim istaknuvši da Richardson nije zlonamjeran. Miley Cyrus je izgleda više nego uživala u editorijalu koji joj je Terry složio prije par mjeseci, bila je izgleda itekako ponosna na spot za pjesmu "Wrecking Ball" čiji je redatelj bio upravo Terry, da ne spominjem da je itekako doprinio cijelom njenom makeoveruu zločestu curicu. Jared Leto, zločesti dečko Hollywooda, ali i nedavni dobitnik Zlatnog Globusa te mogući dobitnik Oscara za ulogu u filmu “Dallas Buyers Club" također ni najmanje ni dvojio da li da stane ispred okidača ozloglašenog umjetnika. Nezgodne optužbe i prisutna objektivizacija ženskog lika nisu spriječile ni kraljice pop feminizma Beyonce i Rihannu da učine isto, a pred Terrya je kao što sam prethodno spomenula bez straha stao i sam američki predsjednik.
U svakom slučaju Terry je fotograf kojeg trebate ako želite da vaša poruka odjekne. Striko Terry kako voli da ga se zove, sa svojim upečatljivim izgledom - oversize naočalama, kockastom košuljom i poznatom thumbs up gestom, vizualno je vrlo upečatljiv lik. A vizualna upečatljivost, dosad ste mogli zaključiti, konstrukcija je koja se definitivno može primijeniti na njegove fotografije, i to pogotovo one koje radi u svrhu svojih izložbi. One su naime još šokantnije od njegovih fashion fotki. Ako ste ikad pomislili da pretjeruje, očito niste vidjeli fotografije na kojima Terry opći s ovcom, one na kojima ga modeli s natpisom kurva na čelu oralno zadovoljavaju ili pak one na koje su prikazani grupni seks te zavezane djevojke i transvestiti i sve to vrlo često fino zapakirano u close up. Ne zaboravimo spomenuti i seriju fotografija na kojima Terry svršava po tepisima random hotelskih soba. Na sve to Terry odmahuje rukom jer za njega su to samo spontani prikazi seksa. Njegovo pravilo je da nikad od drugih ne traži ono što sam ne bi napravio. Ako se model osjeća neugodno, on obično skine svoju odjeću i modelu da fotoaparat u ruke da ga fotografira kako bi se model opustio. " Radi se o stvaranju vibre u kojoj se model osjeća opušteno i uzbuđeno. Kad se to dogodi, sve je moguće", objašnjava Terry. Čovjek koji je svoju karijeru sagradio na jednom iznimnom talentu, a taj je da uspješno uvjerava mlade žene da se skinu ispred njegovog fotoaparata, na optužbe se oglasio negdje 20012. kada je za New York Timesizjavio kako su ga optužbe na njegov račun povrijedile da bi nakon toga uglavnom prestao davati intervjue.
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Terry Richardson - art or pornography? Welcome to porn paradise of this controversial photographer! - part 1
Annie Leibovitz of his generation, the king of porn chic photography, favorite of the stars, and alleged sexual predator, Terry Richardson is a photographer around whom controversy never stops. The son of Bob Richardson, a fashion photographer known for work that can be compared to that of Richard Avedon, as well as its peculiar life filled with struggle with schizophrenia and drugs, Terry is Hollywood's favorite. Growing up in that same Hollywood he started as a shy and socially alienated kid with a camera, so today he could make a brand of himself, a brand that indeed evokes many negative connotations. But whatever we think of Terry, one thing is certain - there almost isn't a celebrity who hasn't stood in front of his lens. For God's sake, not even Obama, Oprah Winfrey and Madonna have remained immune to this photographer's camera shutter.
Richardson shot campaigns for pretty big fashion names such as Marc Jacobs, Gucci, Miu Miu, Jimmy Choo, Diesel, Aldo, Supreme, Tom Ford, Yves Saint Laurent, Levis, Nike, American Apparel and Mango. The list is endless. He worked for magazines such as Rolling Stone, GQ, Vogue, Vanity Fair, Harper's Bazaar, iD and Vice, he photographed Kate Moss's wedding and since his role in pop culture is inevitable, it is not surprising that Lady Gaga chose him to make a documentary about her life.
There are several recurring themes in Richardson's work. Anyone who has looked once at photographs of this artist, will know that it is primarily putting extremely popular stars in quite human environment. Stars are placed in front of him in spontaneous situations, shot just in front of plain white background, being completely bare. In doing so his photos get so realistic that it borders with trash. Like his father, Terry wants to give raw and vital effect to his photography, devoid of any filter, except indeed the hipster one, colored with the spirit of 90s. Bareness is, let's not kid ourselves, an important aspect of his work, and I mean that sexual bareness. Richardson's work is an exploration of sexuality, in which lies the biggest controversy of his work.
Richardson has been repeatedly accused of sexual abuse of his models . I will quote only some of the them :
Rie Rasmussen : " He hires young girls , manipulates them to take their clothes off and then takes photographs they will later be ashamed of . They are however afraid to say " No " because their agencies have arranged that work for them and they are too young to stand up for themselves . "
Jenna Sauers : " I heard from lot of the models he works with everybody the same way . Suddenly you find yourself naked in front of him and then he touches you and goes farther and farther . But you are surrounded by his assistants who monitor his actions "
Jamie Peck : " Of all photographers that I posed au naturel for, he is the only one who left me feeling like I need to take two showers ." By the way on one of the shootings with Terry, he asked her to undress , to which she replied that she is on her period . Photographer was not the least bit distracted . Instead , he asked her to pull out her tampon so he could play with it and use it to make tea . When she refused , Terry stripped naked and walked her to the couch . While doing so, he kindly invited her to socialize with him and his famous friends and afterwards he proposed she satisfies him orally while his assistants encouraged her to do so. After he reached orgasm , one of his assistants handed her the towel .
More and more preferred favorite of women, magazines, tabloids, photographers, and finally of the woman who gives praise hard -fashion Virgin Mary Anna Wintour, Lena Dunham has also expressed her negative attitude towards Terry. Clearly stressing he is a sexual predator, Lena said she regrets that she collaborated with him, pointing out that Terry and she are not friends, although the media speculated on it.
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On the other side model Noot Seer stood in his defense, explaining that Terry does not force people with whom he works on anything they are not comfortable with, while designer Marc Jacobs acknowledged that there are problems within the fashion industry , however pointing out that Richardson is not malicious . Miley Cyrus seemed she more than enjoyed the editoral Terry made for her few months ago , she seemed very proud of the video for the song " Wrecking Ball " which was directed by Terry , not to mention that he certainly contributed to her entire makeover into a naughty girl . Jared Leto , the bad boy of Hollywood , but also recent Golden Globe winner and possible Oscar winner for his role in " Dallas Buyers Club " also didn't have the slightest doubt about standing in front of the camera shutter of this notorious artists . Difficult charges and present objectification of the female character also didn't prevented queens of pop feminism Beyonce and Rihanna to do the same, and as I previously mentioned, without fear American president himself stood in front of Terry as well.
Anyhow Terry is a photographer you should go to if you want your message to rang . " Uncle Terry " as he likes to be called, with his striking appearance - oversize glasses , checkered shirt and famous thumbs up gesture, is visually a very striking figure. And visual impressiveness , until now you could conclude, is the grammar structure that can definetely be applied to his photography , and especially the work for the purpose of his exhibitions . These photos are indeed more shocking than his fashion photos. If you ever thought he was exaggerating, obviously you haven't seen photos which portray Terry having sex with a sheep , those which portray models who with a label whore on their heads orally satisfy him or those showing group sex and tied girls and transgendered people and all that very often packed fine in a close up. Let's not forget to mention the series of photographs where Terry comes at the rugs of random hotel rooms. On all that Terry waves his hand away because all of these photos are just spontaneous displays of sex. His rule is that he never asks other to do anything he wouldn't do. If a model feels uncomfortable, he usually takes off his clothes and gives camera to the model so he or she could take photograph of Terry in order the model would feel relaxed . "It's about creating a vibe where the model feels relaxed and excited. When that happens , anything is possible", explains Terry. The man who built his career on one exceptional talent, and that is to successfully convince young women to take their clothes off in front of his camera, notified on the charges somewhere around 2012. when said for the New York Times that the accusations against him hurt his feelings after which he largely stopped giving interviews .
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